Ask Mischo Beauty...

This week's question comes from a reader, who asked the following:

"I have thin hair and when it gets wet it will get VERY curly, is there a product that can loosen my curls? Maybe like a relaxer?"

Well, a relaxer will straighten your hair permanently, so you'll want to stay away from it. But, a texturizer (which is just the mildest form of a relaxer) will loosen your curl pattern - if applied correctly. But, before rushing out for a texturizer, I'd recommend that you try the following curl enhancing products which are recommended for curly hair types:

- Aveda Be Curly Curl Enhancer
- Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding
- Frederic Fekkai Luscious Curls Cream
- Moroccanoil Intense Curl Cream
- Redken Ringlet 07

Now I don't have curly hair, so my recommendations are from those I know who do and who basically swear by the products listed above! I hope this helps. Please stop back by and let us know how you decide to move forward! And as always, please feel free to send me any additional questions you might have. Love your skin.

If you have beauty questions you'd like answered, please send them to mischobeauty@gmail.com.

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Super Sweetback's Soft and Long Revenge

Could there be such a thing as a deep conditioner that softens and elongates every curly strand of your hair? The Miss Jessies's brand says yes, it is so, with their Super Sweetback Treatment. With a bubblegum/candy scent that will either carry you on a happy cloud to hair heaven or drive you diabetically batty with every whiff, this concoction definitely leaves hair soft and supple. I chose to apply the conditioner before entering the shower to let the steam penetrate my hair for 15 minutes.

I spent a fair amount of the application time wondering which ingredients led to the odd, slick texture with the consistency of jello-y pudding, but I appreciated the outcome. Once air-dried, my usually spirally coils hung in vibrantly buoyant waves. Shine is not one of the benefits imparted by Super Sweetback, so you will have to figure that one out for yourself with a good finishing product. All said, I am looking forward to guaging the long-term results of use, though learning to tolerate the overly sugary scent will be quite a challenge.

Have you given this conditioning treatment a try? What did you think? -Zee

Disclosure: Products in this post were provided for consideration by the company. For more information, please see my disclosure.

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In Pursuit of My Fantasy Hair

For weeks the excitement ate me up inside. Ready to do more than have long hair for the heck of it, I let myself be carried away with anticipation - this curly pouf of fluffy goodness was about to get whipped into shape, and a sensually sweet one at that. I. could. not. wait. Cut day came and by the end of it all, my grand New Hair New Me dreams were living on a wing and a prayer. Had you seen me at 59th St. and Columbus Circle, you would have either pulled me into the nearest bar for some good, stiff drinks or let me the hell alone.

(before haircut)

Y'all know how I have raved about Hair Rules - the products that I use live up to their promises (the no-suds cleanser is so moisturizing that I almost forgot to condition my hair on more than one occasion); Anthony Dickey, a co-founder of the brand, has styled the hell out of some hair - celebrities and non-celebrities alike - I've seen the gorgeous results with my own eyes; and the salon specializes in "textured" hair, and if nothing, I've got plenty of texture all up in here. It was a no-brainer that my cut should be done at their salon. Dickey himself sheared me up and the resulting style looked good, though not great (the haircut inspiration photo I shared with Dickey is the first photo at the top of this post). My inner voice kept an interventionist dialogue going with the rest of my disappointed, then angry and frustrated self. My stated request was to keep my length while being given the shape illustrated in the inspiration photo that I dutifully brought along. I'm still wondering where our lines of communication crossed.

I was on a personal hair growth mission - testing my limits and figuring out how long I could let it grow (this challenge has been akin to figuring out how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop. Like the owl, it seems I will never know). I was coveting the luscious, glorious afro-extraordinaire of the model who appeared on my Body Shoppe discount card about six years ago. I could have been a contender!

I arrived at the salon a few minutes early for my 6:00pm appointment to find I was not on the schedule. RED ALERT. What is really going on? Now, journey with me; I don't want to be unfair. The appointment was made weeks beforehand and confirmed, but stuff happens, and I didn't want to judge harshly so I kept on keeping on. I get to the chair, and because curly styles are cut on straight hair, I am blown out. The benefits of this method are far from lost on me, especially after an experience with a Moroccan stylist who was truly gifted with shaping curly hair, but whose work looked like an Edward Scissorhands swagger-jack when blown out straight. I occasionally wear my hair straight, so it is important that a cut has some sense of symmetry.

(the diffusing process)

Dickey begins to cut and my worry grows as he takes his third pass with the shears. "This man is a celebrity stylist with a great reputation," I said to myself, "and I let him know clearly that I wanted to keep my length. It will be fine." I should have been all over it once he hit on the second pass, but once he began the third it was already too late. On my way to the sink for cleansing, conditioning and curly whip application, I caught a glimpse of my hair from the side and felt all verklempt. Sweet Jesus, it was so much shorter than I asked for. At this point I could only hold out and see how it translated into the curly look.

(final haircut)

After sitting under the dryer for about 15-20 minutes to let the curly whip dry a bit, I was diffused while lying down. The curl definition was serious business, people. I do not exaggerate when I say there was no frizz. He shook it out with his fingers to separate the curls and give it more volume and still no frizz. I kept pulling at the hair at my nape, asking if there was a way to elongate the curl back there (code for: What the eff??? Why is this so short?? Can I get some of it back? No? Wahhhhhhh!)

(three days after haircut)

Needless to say, I left the salon with conflicted feelings. My hair was cute but not what I asked for or imagined. If you've ever had a cut gone wrong, then you know what I mean. In an attempt at self-soothing, I told myself that my hair would look as good as Marsha Ambrosius' once given three months or so to grow out. I was alarmed by the lack of body, but Dickey assured me that it would fill out and by day three it had. Day three was a very good day. Redemption!

(what I hope my haircut will resemble in 3 months!)

In a nutshell: I highly recommend their products, but the jury is still out on styling. If you go, make sure you call ahead to re-confirm your appointment. Bring photos and not only stipulate the shape you would like, but also be explicit regarding length. My hair is MUCH shorter than I wanted it to be, though if the cut necessitated this length, I would have accepted that. Clear communication is necessary to avoid such situations. I thought that was understood, but clearly I was not. Dickey has a long and loyal roster of clients (I told you, I've seen some beautiful hair birthed by his hands) so I am at a loss as to what happened the night that I visited. I am chalking this near-debacle up to distraction and misunderstanding, and waiting three months for my happy ending. -Zee

Disclosure: Products in this post were provided for consideration by the company. For more information, please see my disclosure.

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What are your thoughts on the Brazilian Blowout controversy?

You all know that my undergraduate degree is in Chemistry- and yes, I analyzed the chemical composition of "Lye" and " No-Lye" relaxers as a project for my Analytical Chemistry course. What we found was that the chemicals listed in the ingredients were definitely in the product! And yes, I got an "A"!

So when WWD broke the news about the Brazilian Blowout controversy, I had to know your thoughts! Just in case you haven't heard- "Brazilian Blowout" a professional hair smoothing treatment claimed to be formaldehyde-free, was exposed after an Oregon hairstylist, with the help of Oregon Health & Science University, found between 4.85 percent and 10.6 percent formaldehyde in samples. Not cool - at all!

Let me know your thoughts. Have you had the treatment? If so, how was the process and what were your results? Has your salon now pulled the treatment from their service menu? Do you rely on your hairstylist's product knowledge/expertise before considering a salon treatment? Or, do you do your own research?

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MIZANI True Textures

Girls with curls, it's time to bid adieu to generic "curly hair" products. Forget nonspecific creams, gels, and puddings that pay little attention to your particular type of curl. Like all hair, curly hair comes in various lengths, shapes, and textures. I love a brand that cares about my curls' personality (and mood swings). If I don't finger it out, my hair typically falls into small ringlets. Lately, I've been feeling a bit more adventurous, so I've been going for a looser, bigger coif. Whether you prefer the later, or like your mane more tame, or anything in between, I recommend Mizani's True Textures Collection. Since I've been using the line, I have more versatility and styling options.

If you want a tighter curl, try their True Textures Perfect Curl Defining Cream Gel. It defines the curl while adding shine, without making the hair hard like gel can. It's a cream and gel in one, which moisturizes and separates the curls.

Nowadays, I am less keen on structure, so I love their Moisture Stretch Curl Extending Cream. The cream is smooth and light, and is ideal for those who want to release an already defined natural curl. Again, my hair is a natural spiral (Type 3), and I use this when I want to let loose!

Even better, True Textures is a complete line with shampoos and conditioners specific to curly hair with a variety of cleansing and conditioning options. Mizani's True Textures Curl Balance Color Safe Sulfate-Free Shampoo gives a deep down clean, without the grassy feeling of the hair being stripped of moisture. And since I've gone lighter for the summer (as many of us do), a color safe shampoo is important.

Their Cleansing Cream Conditioning Curl Wash is my favorite! It's a shampoo and conditioner in one, for those in-between days when you need a cleansing to remove product build-up, but are not yet ready for a proper, time-consuming shampoo-conditioner-deep conditioner-production. Or really, if you're like me and you wet your hair often, it's a great refresh.

The True Textures Curl Replenish Intense Moisturizing Masque is a nice, light, but effective conditioner that provides moisture and a really great shine.

I'd say that this line is ideal for any curly look, whatever your hair feels like. Thank goodness, cause my hair is one moody gal!

Be beautiful, and be well. -Ayanna Shamese

Disclosure: Products in this post were provided for consideration by the company. For more information, please see my disclosure.

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Mischo Beauty Superstar of the Week: Miko &Titi Branch (founders of Miss Jessie’s Products and Salon)

As my blog approaches it's 3rd anniversary (yes, it's this Sunday!), I felt it only fitting to feature the two women, Miko and Titi Branch (amazing beauty entrepreneurs!) who are the founder's of Miss Jessie's Products and Salon, and who also inspired my very first blog post!

You see after reading about their products in Essence Magazine, back in 2005 , my mother (who lives in Indiana) had me hunt them down and send her the Curly Pudding and Curly Buttercreme. And after using them, it was instant love!

Those of you who've been following my blog, know I love hair (it's what started this journey) and that I'm building a beauty empire. And so for me, Miko and Titi are a huge inspiration. I've written about them here, here, here, here and here - but, you're invited to check out their redesigned website, new product offerings and styling tutorials.

Love these amazing ladies as much as I do? Let me know!

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Rene Furterer’s Acanthe Perfect Curls

There is no such thing as bad hair. And with the right products, all hair is good hair. The key is identifying your hair type and determining what your hair likes by observing its reaction to different products. Pay attention to what your hair needs, and it will give you what you want.

My hair is curly (Type 3) and fairly low-maintenance. I've mostly used inexpensive shampoos and conditioners and generic gels for many years. After researching, I decided to take better care of my hair, to make it as healthy as possible.

I experimented with many, and found that Rene Furterer's Acanthe Perfect Curls line delivers all that my hair likes, needs, and wants. The Curl Enhancing shampoo thoroughly cleanses away the residue of days worth of product. The conditioner detangles and moisturizes without leaving that heavy, overly conditioned feeling. The Curl Enhancing leave-in fluid is the icing on the cake. With only a few drops, it smoothes out your strands, defining your natural curl pattern, allowing you to style your hair with or without a comb. (I use my fingers!) No hard gel-like finish and no stiff, over-processed residue!

As with all things, you get only as much as you give. Love your hair, and it will love you back.

Be beautiful, and be well. -Ayanna Shamese

Disclosure: Products in this post were provided for consideration by the company. For more information, please see my disclosure.

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What are your "hair plans" for the summer?

With summer quickly approaching (of course, not fast enough), I'd love to know what your plans are for your hair! Are you planning to cut, color or add extensions? Will you be wearing it curly or rocking a "no-fuss" style (if so, tell us what it is!). Whatever your plans might be, please share!

My new beauty editor, Ayanna, recently colored her hair (inspired by Queen Latifah's haircolor in the new CoverGirl Queen Collection ads! Click to see the before and after (click on her profile pic)!

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Mischo Beautyliciousness...

If you browse the Mischo Beauty archives, then you know we're huge Tracee Ellis Ross fans- yes, we've been blogging about her since just about day 1! When I saw this photo of her with the fabulous red coat, ring and her signature nude heels, I had to share. But really, it's all about her curls- always healthy, effortless and oh so very chic!

Don't you agree?!

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Mischo Beauty Alert: Kinky-Curly Beauty Event

What: Mix & Mingle with Shelley Davis (creator of Kinky-Curly) and Wilshire Beauty as they celebrate the launch of Midnight Miracle

Where: Wilshire Beauty, 5401 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90036, 323-937-2001 (space is limited - rsvp a must)

When: Saturday, May 30th, 12:00pm - 3:00pm

Why: For an afternoon of healthy hair care tips, free samples, gift basket giveaways & product demos!

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Mischo Beauty Loves Miss Jessie's

I've had love and admiration for Titi and Miko (founders/owners of Miss Jessie's) for years now. You see they've been a inspiration to me (they're doing exactly what I'm working to achieve!) and were the subject of my very first post on this blog. At any rate, they opened the doors of Miss Jessie's Salon in 1997 to respond to the demand for expertise in curly, kinky and wavy hair.

The Miss Jessie's product line (named after their grandmother) was inspired by their grandmother's spirit for finding solutions. And most recently they've launched the Creme De La Curl shampoo (sulfate free) and the Creme De La Creme conditioner. I found the Creme De La Curl shampoo to be gentle and very moisturizing. There's no lathering and definitely no suds involved, so no worries about dry/stripped hair. I'll admit that it's taken some getting used to, but I love it!

The Creme De La Creme conditioner is just as gentle as the shampoo and it is recommended for a range of hair types/issues - natural, dry, color and chemically treated. I highly suggest using it as a follow-up to the Creme De La Curl shampoo.

My type 4B hair is currently chemical-free, but I don't use the curly products because I usually wear my hair straight. But, I've told you all before how much my mother loves the Curly Buttercreme and Curly Pudding. My favorite product is the Rapid Recovery Treatment. It's an intense deep conditioning treatment that works wonders on the hair. And, a product that can detangle my hair in its natural state is definitely a MUST-HAVE for me! Seriously!

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Mischo Beauty Alert Reminder: Kérastase's "Our Treat" Event - Complimentary (FREE!) Hair Services

I wanted to remind you all about the Kerastase "Our Treat" Event happening now! Be sure to check out the Kerastase blog for photos, stories from clients and updates from events in New York City, Chicago and San Francisco. Enjoy!

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Mischo Beauty School: Hair Relaxers 101 & Phytospecific

I'm inviting those of you who might need a refresher on the difference between "lye" and "no lye" hair relaxers to visit my "Mischo Beauty School: Hair Relaxers 101" post from last month, and please feel free to leave questions for me in the comments section. I'm shifting the focus of today's post to Phytospecific's Level 2 Collection, which is formulated to "hydrate and nourish ultra-dry hair".

And so to clarify, this collection is also for color-treated and relaxed hair and is formulated with plant extracts and essential oils. About 95% of my hair falls into the "ultra-dry" category, and the other 5% falls into the "relaxed" category (I still have relaxer on my ends in certain areas) - so this collection was perfect for me!

I started with the Intense Nutrition Shampoo, which I think I used a little more than was required (hence the crumpled tube pictured above!). The shampoo is formulated with macadamia, kukui and castor oils and it's consistency was a lot thinner than I'd expected- I believe that's why I used more than was actually needed. It lathered, had a very mild scent and rinsed with no issues.

I used the Intense Nutrition Mask as a deep conditioning treatment, leaving it on for 20 minutes while sitting under a hooded-hair dryer. It's a nourishing conditioner with sunflower, mango and rapeseed oils and it worked like magic! Loved it! It softened and completely detangled my hair and that's a huge deal! My hair type is 4B and when it gets wet, it's very hard to detangle. After using the mask, I was surprised and delighted - I highly recommend it!

The Integral Hair Care is a leave-in conditioner formulated with wheat protein, pro-vitamin B5 and hibiscus flower extract. It protects against heat styling and UV rays. It was my second favorite product in the collection. I applied this leave-in to my hair while wet and proceeded to blow-dry and flat iron my hair. My finish was AMAZING! Let me repeat that, my finish was AMAZING! My type 4B hair was smooth, shiny and had body and movement. Loved. this. product!

The only product I didn't use was the Moisturizing Styling Balm. My hair seemed to be satisfied with what I'd already used and I loved my finish, so I didn't feel the need to use it. But, just so you're aware-the styling balm is formulated with althea and sunflower extracts, is meant to be used daily and provides light hold and shine. It also protects against UV rays.

Phytospecific products are formulated without parabens, sulfates, synthetic dyes, petro-chemicals and phthalates. The Level 1 Collection is formulated to hydrate normal to dry hair, and the Level 3 Collection is formulated to hydrate, nourish and repair damaged or brittle hair.

I love what I've tried so far and highly recommend it! Have you tried Phytospecific products? If so, any thoughts you'd like to share?

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Beautiful hair needs an expert: No Frizz by Living Proof

For those of you who constantly deal with frizzy hair, you'll want to consider trying No Frizz by Living Proof. "Straight Making" and "Wave Shaping/Curl Defining" are styling aids which were developed "to do what silicones can't: eliminate frizz by blocking humidity". I love the fact that these products have a formulation for your specific hair type: fine to medium hair, medium to thick hair and thick to coarse hair.

You all know that I advise on using products for your specific hair, skin or nail needs/issues and so the fact that these products are broken down by hair type and need, makes them worth trying! They are available beginning February 2009 and because I love Tracee Ellis Ross' hair so much I'm recommending this line for her!

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Beautiful hair needs an expert: Ellin LaVar PenetratingBalm

I've been testing out Ellin Lavar Textures' PenetratingBalm and I highly recommend it for dry, coarse and naturally curly hair. My hair falls into the 4b hair type category, so my natural hair is thick and coarse. This is a great moisturizing leave-in conditioner, that helps to detangle and soften hair. After using this, I found my hair to be very manageable and easy to section off for blow-drying.

The texture of the PenetratingBalm is somewhat thick and very creamy, and a little goes a long way. This would also be a good moisturizing styling aid for those of you with dry, naturally curly hair. It's formulated with an oil from the seeds of Brazil's passion-flower fruit called Maracuja. This oil works to nourish the hair, which is very important during this dry winter season, and it works to control frizz and keep curls shiny and defined.

I'm recommending that Tracee Ellis Ross use this to nourish and hydrate her naturally curly hair and I'm recommending this for you as well! Questions? Did anyone see Ellin's reality show "Hair Trauma" on WE TV? If so, what did you think?

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Beautiful hair needs an expert: Miss Jessie's

In case you haven't heard by now, Titi and Miko are back and they've launched their "Creme De La Curl" shampoo (sulfate free) & "Creme De La Creme" conditioner! All you of Curly Pudding and Curly Buttercreme lovers should check it out! Also, take advantage of their "Buy 1, Get 1 Free" special until December 31, 2008.

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Mischo Beauty Alert: Miss Jessie's Salon Is Back!

I just received an email blast announcing the reopening of Miss Jessie's Salon. Not exactly sure why it closed in the first place, but according to the email, Miko Branch (co-owner & head stylist) seems to be in the salon without her sister Titi. I had to show love to these women, as they were the very first post that started my little blog and I absolutely LOVE their entrepreneurial spirit- and also due to the fact that my mother loves their products too!

Have you tried Miss Jessie's products?

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Mischo Beauty Pick

Another one of my favorite product lines is Davines. It’s a line of hair care products from Europe, with a range of products for every hair type. I was introduced to these products during my first salon apprenticeship. After having worked countless hours as a shampoo assistant, I grew to love the results I witnessed firsthand.

My absolute favorite is the Love Shampoo & Conditioner (Lovely Smoothing Shampoo & Conditioner). It’s a combination of Indian Fig extract, rice proteins, olive oil and vitamin E, resulting in a rich blend of conditioners and moisturizers that work to nourish the hair. The result is always soft hair with a smooth cuticle.

I highly recommend the products for dry, coarse or curly hair. And guess what, just in time to share LOVE for Valentine’s Day…

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Beautiful hair needs an expert.

The products and tools to get Tracey Ellis Ross' look!

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Mason Pearson

Ted Gibson, hairstylist to the stars and owner of the Ted Gibson Salon in New York, recommends handmade Mason Pearson brushes as necessary tools for maintaining healthy hair. Recognized as the finest hairbrushes in the world, they play an important role in the condition of the hair by stimulating the scalp and spreading the hair's natural oils from roots to ends. Every woman should have one!

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