Mischo Beauty School: Haircolor 101

I'm passionate about haircolor and I'm writing about this topic, yet again! My apprenticeship at Vidal Sassoon required me to search high and low for models wanting root touch-ups, highlights, gray coverage, bleach & tones, highlift blondes, and single & double processes. Believe it or not, I was always able to find a model that needed one of these services and the results always left me amazed and excited about the next challenge.

With that said, let's discuss haircolor. It falls into four categories: temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent:

1. Temporary haircolor coats the hair shaft and is easily removed by shampooing. Examples include: color rinses or color-enhancing shampoos.

2. Semipermanent haircolor partially penetrates the hair shaft and slowly fades with shampooing. It doesn't lighten the hair and is usually used to enhance fading haircolor.

3. Demipermanent haircolor doesn't lighten hair and, like semipermanent haircolor, it is used to enhance fading haircolor. It penetrates the hair shaft and lasts longer than semipermanent haircolor.

4. Permanent haircolor is used to lighten hair and cover grey. It remains in the hair shaft until the growth of new hair.

Any questions? Love your hair.



Shalon said...

Thank you so much for this post, I am getting hair color in two weeks and I am nervous because I have never had color before. One question, what does single process and double process mean?

June 2, 2008 at 10:00 PM
Nicole said...

Cool photos!

I have avoided coloring my hair for a few months now and I feel great about it. I don't really plan on coloring or doing anything to it any time soon, but I did have a question just for reference.

Do you have any experience with Henna products? I read a little bit online about certain ones but I was just wondering if you knew more about it?

Just curious!


June 3, 2008 at 12:09 AM
Mischo Beauty said...

To Shalon: Single process just means a single application of haircolor to achieve the desired result. Double process means that there are two haircolor processes at minimum required to achieve the desired result. For instance, if Salma Hayek wanted to be a blonde- the first color process would be to lighten her hair and then the second would be to deposit the desired shade of blonde onto her hair and that's if her natural haircolor actually lifted as desired and the first color deposited onto her lighted hair was the perfect shade.

Does that make sense?

June 4, 2008 at 6:59 PM
Girl-Woman said...

Wonderful post. Are the beehives back?

June 5, 2008 at 3:08 PM
Shalon said...

Yes that makes sense. Good post very informative.

June 8, 2008 at 7:05 PM
Mischo Beauty said...

To Nicole: I have no personal experience with using henna on myself or on clients- but my Milady Standard Cosmetology text states the following:

"Henna is considered natural haircolor, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants. There is no lightening of natural hair color with henna and the color result tends to be weak and the process can be lengthy and messy. Shade ranges are limited to usually black, chestnut and auburn tones. Also if the henna dye was formulated with "metallic salts"- which are used to make "other" henna colors (true henna is red-orange) then you cannot add bleach, permanent haircolor or apply a permanent wave to your hair without severe damage."

My suggestion would be to always read the manufacturer's directions and to consult a stylist. I hope that helped!

June 9, 2008 at 7:17 AM
Mischo Beauty said...

To "girl-woman": Thanks! The photos are courtesy of Goldwell Professional Haircare(http://www.goldwellusa.com/) and I believe they're more for editorial purposes- though you'd probably see someone with this style on the streets of NYC easily!

June 9, 2008 at 7:20 AM
Mischo Beauty said...

To Shalon: Please let me know if you have more questions- you know I love answering them!!!! :)

June 9, 2008 at 7:20 AM
Anonymous said...

Thanks for the post. Tell me, what is the best thing for gray hairs? I have very dark brown hair and I love the color, but I have too many grays now to tweeze out. The last person who cut my hair told me that I needed just highlights for the grays because all over color would grow and show my gray roots too quickly. does that make sense at all. What should I do about the grays- what do you usually recommend when someone doesn't want to change their hair color and only cover grays. Thanks :)

June 9, 2008 at 7:56 PM
Mischo Beauty said...

To "Anonymous": Gray coverage was one of THE most important areas I was required to master during my training- due to the fact that the majority of clients coming in for haircolor are wanting to cover gray!

It doesn't sound as if you have a lot of gray just yet, so highlights would definitely be a route for you. Just remember that they'll still have to use permanent haircolor to cover the gray, because only permanent haircolor will completely cover gray. Also remember that as your hair grows out, your roots will grow in gray. So, you'll need to touch-up the roots of the highlights as well.

Or- you can always just have your colorist cover your gray to match your natural haircolor. A good colorist should be able to do that for you. And since you don't have very much gray- they'll cover the gray with permanent haircolor and maybe use a demi or semi color on the rest of your hair. Using a semi or demi color is less harsh, as opposed to applying permanent haircolor over all of your hair. Also, a semi or demi color with refresh your color and you won't have to worry about lines of demarcation which is when the hair has been colored and as it grows out you can see the difference between the artificial color and the natural color. A semi or demi color will eventually just fade over time.

On a final note- coloring gray and keeping it up does require maintenance and frequent touch-ups. Depending on how fast your hair grows- you many need to touch-up the color every 4-6 weeks.

I hope this helped! Feel free to ask any additional questions! :)

June 10, 2008 at 1:29 PM

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